After 8 hours in a train we arrived in Trincomalee. We took a tuk tuk (350R) from the station to the Angel Inn Beach in Uppuveli, which is a nice little hotel with five rooms all facing a beautiful garden. The owner Thussi built almost everything himself and is super helpful. He used to be a diving instructor and runs almost all of the diving and snorkeling tours in Uppuveli. The rooms are spacious, clean and the ensuite bathrooms with waterfall showers have a special charm.
Uppuveli consists mainly of a few streets located right on a white beach with palmtrees and turqoise water. During the off season it is perfect to relax and get away from the crowds. From what we have heard it gets really busy during the high season though. We got very lucky and got to enjoy both tranquility and exceptionally good weather the entire time we were there.
Upon arrival we took a long walk on the beach, met some friendly cows and had good coffee at the place to be: Fernandos Beach Bar.
For dinner we followed the advise of my good friend Olga, who had been to Uppuveli before and stopped at Rice’n’Curry. It is the best place to eat, especially if you’re a veggie. They offered a curry buffet including treats like pumpkin, ocra, eggplant, potatoes, banana flower, dhal, and beetroot – all prepared in varying styles and ‘levels of spicy’. To top it all off you get to choose from a long list of fresh juices and listen to relaxed electronic music while enjoying your meal. It was the best food we had on our entire trip through Sri Lanka – and we had a lot of good food 🙂
The next day greeted us with perfect sunshine, so we spend a lot of time on the perfect beach. We had breakfast at Fernando’s: omlette, toast, fruit and good coffee. The prices are quite high, especially when compared to other places in Sri Lanka, but the view is unbeatable.
…and did some sandy beach yoga.
My friend Sarah got the supposedly best massage in Uppuveli at Silver Beach Hotel: a 1h ayurvedic treatment from a 50+ year old guy with a life full of ayurveda experience. Sarah was really happy with the massage and it cost 3.000 rupees, which is about 20 euros. The massages can be booked even if you are not staying at the hotel
After the massage we treated ourselves to another round of Rice’n’Curry before we wanted to head back to our hotel. We chose to walk back over the main street. It was dark, we had no flashlight and the street does not have a sidewalk. When a tuk tuk came rushing toward us, we needed to get off the street. Unfortunately there was a construction hole right next to the street, which I did not see and I fell in. I got injured quite badly. Luckily the next tuk tuk stopped to take us back to our hotel free of charge. I spent the next day at the hospital. If you want to know what it was like to go to a hospital in Sri Lanka, continue reading here. Be sure to be really careful when walking the streets in Sri Lanka at night. This little ‘misstep’ caused me a lot of pain and precious travel time.
Uppuveli and Nilaveli are famous for snorkeling and diving tours. We had booked a snorkeling tour to pigeon island the next day, but had to cancel due to my injuries. So we spent the next days resting and rearranging our plans. If you end up going to Uppuveli and take a trip to Pigeon Island, I’d be happy to hear how you liked it 🙂